Get rid of adult acne in under five minutes a day

We thought acne was a teenage problem. Although we left our twenties behind, the pimples kept appearing. Therefore, we found a solution to this frustrating and sometimes embarrassing situation.

Get rid of adult acne

We discovered how to get rid of adult acne with minimum effort and expense. Here is our plan of attack.

Wash to kill bacteria and control excess oil

The first step is to use acne face washes that unclog pores while they cleanse. Using an anti-acne cleanser morning and night is the key. For those with sensitive skin, alternate cleansings with a gentle moisturizing face wash instead.

Also, since body acne or “bacne” pops up once in a while, we use body washes for acne-prone skin. Many of these soaps exfoliate dead skin without the need for scrubbing. And they leave the skin soft and smooth.

Topical treatments to eliminate pimples

Next, to streamline the process, we purchased the best acne treatment kits. The ones we use contain face wash, moisturizer, and spot treatment cream. Not only can we get rid of pimples, but we can also prevent new ones from appearing.

Many of these companies design their anti-acne products to work together for better, faster results. For example, Dermalogica has one set for overnight use and one for daytime application.

Moisturize to keep skin happy and reduce oiliness

Now, while it may seem contrary to reason, not using moisturizer will lead to more oiliness. Therefore, it’s essential to moisturize each time you wash your face. This calms irritation and protects the natural barrier of the skin.

Sunscreen to reduce breakouts

Finally, sunscreen is vital to prevent acne. Ultraviolet radiation can trigger breakouts. We use sunscreens that don’t clog pores but block harmful UV with a minimum of SPF 15 protection.

In summary, adding a few minutes a day to wash, then moisturize and apply treatments, has worked. Pimples are now few and far between, plus they are easier to cure.

How to remove dip powder nails?

Dip powder nails are popular across ladies because of their shiny, rich texture and strong, long-lasting appearance. It is easier to obtain perfect looking gel nails and dip powder nails with the right method using the right products. Same is the case with its removal process. if you are aware of the most suitable products and procedure, it’s a breeze to get off the gel nail polish or dip powder nails easily at home.

So, no worries if you have got to remove your dip powder sns nails at home, we have got you covered here:


Things you need:

  • Acetone
  • File, buffer or sanding stick
  • Cotton balls
  • Aluminum foil
  • Cotton cloth
  • Bowl

There are basically two ways or methods that can be used to remove SNS dip powder nails using acetone. You can either use one of them or both collectively for getting perfectly clean nails at home.

Method 1:

In the first method, we can simply get rid of the dip powder nails by soaking the nails into acetone liquid.

  1. At first sand your nails and file them and remove the top coat of the nails gently. Remember, not to scratch the nails too hard as it may damage your nails too. Make sure to use gentle strokes and remove the upper layer only.
  2. Take 1-2 bowls depending on if you need to clean nails on both hands, or one at a time, half-fill the bowl with warm or a bit of hot water. Dip the nails for 15 minutes or 20 minutes. This will help in softening the layers and make it easier to remove with later steps.
  3. Take other bowls with smaller size and place paper cloth dipped in acetone in them. Soak your nails on that paper cloth by keeping them dipped in the cloth that is dripping with acetone. There should be plenty of acetone added on the paper cloth to soak nails properly without leaving them dry.
  4. After 15-20 minutes you can remove your nails from the acetone dipped paper cloth and gently rub-off the nails to remove the gel nails polish layers.
  5. If you still see spots of the base coat on your nails you can use a buffer to remove them away.

Method 2:

The second method also includes the same ingredients but a different method for easier removal:

  1. Remove the upper layer on your nails using the sanding stick or buffer with gentle strokes so that the nails are not damaged.
  2. After filing and sanding clean your nails using cotton balls gently and make sure debris is
  3. Dip 10-11 cotton swabs in acetone for some time and make sure they are dripping with acetone when you place them on your nails.
  4. Cut small pieces of aluminum foil, each piece should be enough to cover the fingertips to keep cotton balls in place, on your nails.
  5. Now, place the cotton balls (dipped and dripping with acetone) on your nails and cover each fingertip separately with the pieces of aluminum foil. This will keep the cotton balls on the nails for better soaking and easier gel removal.
  6. Make sure to wait for 7-10 minutes. After that gently remove the foil from each finger and rub the nails to remove the gel or lds dip powder nails coats. In case if they don’t come off you can leave it for a few minutes more.
  7. Finish your nails with filer or sanding stick with gentle strokes and make sure not to scrape too hard.

Cautions and tips

  • Make sure you dip your nails for a considerable time to remove dip-powder nail gel easily and don’t rush.
  • Keep the nail foils intact in a finger shape cup and remove without unwrapping them. This will help in putting them back easily if you need to soak your nails again.
  • Don’t scratch or scrap the nails too hard as it may damage the nails.
  • Let your nails rest for a few days before deciding to repaint it. Choose gel or dip nail polish such as opi gel polish or kiara sky dip powder, these are good suggestions for you.

Now that you have two slightly different ways to remove your dip powder nail polish or gel nail polish, you can use either of these depending on your preference. The common ingredient is acetone so you have to be sure you have it with you. In addition to that proper preparing, sanding and filing the nails properly are a few steps that are helpful in getting perfectly finished nails.

Best UVB Bulb For Pet Reptile

Reptiles or amphibians are cold-blooded animals. Hence, they need supplemental sources of heat and light to help them regulate their body temperatures. It will also help them properly digest the foods that they eat.

These animals have specific light and heat requirements, however. You cannot just use any available lighting to provide them with heat and light. Failing to provide them with the appropriate temperatures they need to synthesize their food. It can also decrease appetite, as well as cause a high level of stress for your pet and can make it more prone to health issues.

To ensure that you are providing adequate heat and light for your herp, follow these essential guidelines as these will provide you with a better understanding of the best UVB light that you can provide for your pet reptile or amphibian.

The best UVB light for pet reptile

There are several variations to choose from when it comes to the best UVB light that you can use to provide your pet reptile or amphibian with UVB lighting. Four of these types are found to take much of the market share: the linear fluorescent lighting, the compact fluorescent lighting, the mercury vapor lighting, and the metal halide lighting. There will soon be more options available in the future with technological advances and as production costs go down.

1. Linear Fluorescent Lighting

This type of UVB lighting is considered to be the least expensive. It is also made to fit a variety of fluorescent fixtures, and also provide an even UVB as well as visible lighting over a wide area. It has been around for quite some time now. Linear fluorescent bulbs fit into most fluorescent fixtures that use T8 bulb.

This type of bulb works well in producing low to moderate levels of UVB and has a decent color rendering index (CRI). It can provide even illumination across a wide area of up to 48″. These bulbs are great for use with animals that have low to moderate UVB requirements and can bask within 12-20″ of the bulbs only. Those who have used this bulb indicated one of the concerns of this UVB bulb that it should be replaced every 6 to 12 months. It also produces a relatively weak.

Linear Fluorescent Bulbs are available in three different strengths and a variety of lengths. 2.0 bulbs can be used as a 6700K (close to daylight) visible light source. However, it puts off very little usable UVB. But they are great for use with live plants as well as for those reptiles and amphibians that need low UVB to none, like poison dart frogs.

5.0 bulbs are designed to produce moderate UVB levels, such as those required by reptiles and other animals that live on the forest floor. These Linear Fluorescent Bulbs are ideal for green iguanas, anoles, as well as other jungle or forest animals with moderate UVB requirements.

10.0 bulbs, on the other hand, duplicate the intense UVB produced by full sun conditions, such as deserts. Such UVB bulb is best suited for pet reptiles such as bearded dragons. If you will use a 10.0 Linear Fluorescent Bulb, you need to make sure that your pet reptile is able to bask 8-12″ away from the bulb.

2. Compact Fluorescent Lighting

The earlier design of the compact fluorescent lighting was met with criticism as users of the earlier model reported that their pet’s vision was damaged after exposure to the light emitted by this lighting fixture. Modern compact fluorescent UVB bulbs, however, are perfectly safe to use with your pet reptiles and amphibians.

They are like linear fluorescent bulbs, except that they are designed to be wrapped and folded around the bulbs themselves several times. Much of the UVB that this bulb emits is transmitted back to the bulb. As such, you may need a fixture with a reflector to increase the amount of UVB reaching your reptile’s enclosure if you decide to install a compact fluorescent lighting for your pet.

This type of UVB bulb is also inexpensive as compared to other similar products. As these bulbs are self-ballasted, they’ll screw into most standard incandescent sockets. Another good thing about these bulbs is that they are energy efficient. They come with bulbs that use only 13-26 watts. Reptiles to be placed for basking under this bulb should be able to bask within 12″ of the bulb. Like the Linear Fluorescent Bulbs, Compact Fluorescent Bulbs also need to be replaced after every 6 months.

The previous model of the compact type usually come in the same three strengths that linear fluorescent bulbs do. Today, however, modern CFL UVB bulbs are available in 100, 150, and 200 model. Each model progressively emits higher UVB levels than the model below it. UVB 100 bulbs are, thus, approximately equivalent to the previous 5.0 bulbs. UVB 150 bulbs roughly equate to the former 10.0 bulbs. Finally, UVB 200 bulbs are said to emit a much more intense UVB light and are said to produce UVB that can be used up to about 18″ away.

Exo Terra, a well-known brand in this category, has also recently released a ‘Reptile Vision’ CFL bulb. This is designed to be used together with a UVB bulb. This bulb emits a high level of UVA light, which plays a significant role in how reptiles and amphibians see their environment.

3. Mercury Vapor Lighting

Recent developments in this category have introduced another innovation in the lighting category for reptiles and amphibians. Mercury Vapor Bulbs are noted for their long life. These bulbs are said to be replaced only after 12-18 months of use. As these bulbs emit high levels of UVB, they are well-suited for full sun animals like monitors and bearded dragons.

Since they have a high operating temperature, they can only be used with a wire clamp lamp type fixture as these fixtures promote airflow around the bulb and allow heat to dissipate more readily than a typical clamp lamp or deep dome fixture.

4. Metal Halide Lighting

Metal Halide UVB bulbs are quite a new design in the US pet trade. However, they have already been used overseas for some time. These bulbs produce some of the most intense UVB, hence are considered to be well-fit for bearded dragons, dwarf monitors, veiled chameleons, and other sun-loving reptiles.

As they also require low electrical usage compared to Mercury Vapor bulbs, metal halide bulbs are considered an energy efficient solution for an ‘all in one’ UVA/UVB and heat source for your pet reptiles. They also last longer than most UVB bulbs (up to 24 months). They do cost more and also requires an expensive metal halide fixture. However, the bulbs are priced cheaper than mercury vapor bulbs.

Things to consider with regards to UVB bulbs

Regardless of the UVB bulb type that you decide to use for your pet, there are several things to remember so that your pet will receive the maximum benefit from what you have prepared.

1. All UVB will need to be replaced. Take note of the dates when you first used your lighting fixtures and your bulbs. You will also need to constantly check thermometers installed inside your pet’s enclosure to ensure that the heat and lighting sources are providing adequate heat and light that they need.

Distance from the UVB source is also an important element in providing appropriate heat and lighting levels to your pet. Make sure to consult the manufacturer’s recommendations when finding the right bulb to use. You will also need to take note of the indicated distance that your pet should be from the UVB bulb before finally deciding which UVB bulb to buy.

2. Glass and Plexi/acrylic block UVB rays. To ensure that your pet is receiving adequate supplemental UVB rays, you may need to take it out of the glass if the bulb is directly set up with the glass/acrylic blocking the emitted light.

3. A screen can reduce the amount of UVB transferred to your pet reptile or amphibian. If you intend to use a mesh as a screen top, make sure that it will be a large mesh size as possib

Hopefully, this guide can help you decide which will best be suited for your pet reptile or amphibian.